ILLUSTRATIONS : by ALEXIA SINCLAIR

Illustrations : by Alexia Sinclair
Categories: Art Images » Illustrations

detail....
54 JPG | 430x667 - 1500x667 | 7.27 Мb

nak framekan artwork2 tersebut...
nah, ambil...

PAINTING : by MARTIN DESCHAMBAULT

PAINTING : MARTIN DESCHAMBAULT

Art by Martin Deschambault
Categories: Art Images » Paintings

detail...
98 JPG | 1200X600 | 25 mb

rase mcm nk buat koleksi...
tekan, jgn segan

TUTORIAL : MEMBUAT DAUN 3D DARI FOTO TEKSTUR

TUTORIAL : MEMBUAT DAUN 3D DARI FOTO TEKSTUR

Di dalam edisi totorial beginner ini, anda akan mempelajari cara membuat kompilasi 3D daun hidup dari foto tekstur biasa. Anda akan mampu memanipulasi objek yang anda inginkan. mari kita cuba lakukan..


Step 1
To begin, you’ll need to find a photograph texture of a leaf. I have chosen this one by a photographer named Caleb Kimbrough.




Step 2

Load your new found texture into a new project. With the Rectangular Marquee Tool (M) selected, Right-click on your layer in the artboard and select Free Transform. Once you have done that right-click on the texture again and select Warp. I have labeled each corner respectively as we will be moving them around quite a bit.




Step 3

Now that you have your layer in Warp mode, click and drag the corner (a) down 1/3 of your grid.




Step 4

Now click and drag the corner (point c) up 1/3 of your grid. Already our leaf is beginning to take on it’s natural form.




Step 5

Each corner has 2 arms that you can move in order to manipulate your layer even further. Pull the corner’s (point a) left arm down as shown below.



Step 6

You should give a sharper edge to your leaf. Something like this. Press Enter to finalize the Warp.



Step 7

You should have a sharp point on your leaf after the last several steps. However, your point may be a bit bent due to the Warp Tool curling. Fix this by using the Polygonal Laso Tool (L), selecting the excess curl and pressing the Delete key.




Step 8

Now lets focus on the other end of the leaf. Use the Warp Tool again (see Step 2) and drag point d as shown in the picture below. You’ll want to get both of the arms of point d to be parallel.




Step 9

Now do the same with the top-right corner (point b). Also, if you want you can tweak the leaf into whatever position you require by holding your mouse down and dragging the inner grid, as well as the other points.



Step 10

To add a bit of additional perspective Right-click on your leaf and select Free Transform. Now hold Alt + Shift and drag the top-right corner, then move it left a bit. This will give the leaf a bit of distance perspective.



Step 11

If you want to make the leaf drop at its point, use the Rectangular Marquee Tool (M) and select only the left half of the leaf. Then proceed to Free Transform > Warp. This will allow you to move that half of the leaf without warping the right half. Make sure not to move the points that are in contact with the leaf that is not selected as this will cause a tear between the two pieces.



Step 12

Next, duplicate the layer with your leaf on it, drag that layer below your original leaf layer. Warp it a little to show some discrepancy. Repeat this process as many times as your desire. Play with it and have fun.




Step 13

On each layer you can add a simple drop shadow by double-clicking on the layer and checking the box labelled Drop Shadow. To give leaves even more depth, make sure you adjust the Distance, Size, and Opacity accordingly. The larger leaf has an Opacity of 63%, a Distance of 299px, and a Size of 84px (this is on an artboard sized at 2590px by 1943px at 72px per inch). If you have a leaf that is directly on top of another, you will want to have the distance significantly lower, as well as the size. It should be more sharp and distinct.




Step 14

Next I added a quick and easy Bevel and Emboss. It is often frowned upon to use this but it gets the job done quick. You can paint the sunlight hitting the leaf if you desire, but this is only an intermediate tutorial.

Double-click on the desired layer and check the box Bevel and Emboss. Change your Depth to 100%, Size to 65px, and Soften to 0px. Also you may want to lower the Opacity of the Highlight Mode as well as the Shadow Mode.




Step 15

You may want to add some depth of field. To do this I recommend you use a simple Gaussian Blur. Select the leaf that is below the rest of them. Right-click on the layer in the Layer Window and select Convert to Smart Object. Now select Filter > Blur > Gaussian Blur and set it to 2.6 pixels.

A Smart Object will allow you to change the settings of your applied filters non-destructively. If you are really thoughtful, you could do this with the Drop Shadow and the Bevel and Emboss on the leaves…repeat this process with the other leaves, but lower the blur as the leaves get closer to the largest leaf. We want that to be the focus.

You can also use the paint brush to mask the Smart Filter on the Smart Object. If you select the Smart Filter on your Smart Object layer, select the color black and paint on the artboard with the Paintbrush Tool. You will find that it removes the Gaussian Blur (or any other filter you applied to your Smart Object) in the area that you paint black. I did this with the largest leaf and left only the edges slightly blurred.




Final Image

There you have it. A quick and easy display of greenery. You can really play around with this and do a lot of different types of leaves and positioning. I hope you’ve enjoyed this tutorial. Half the fun is just messing around with the Warp tool. The final image is below. You can view it larger here.

TUTORIAL : DIGITAL KOLAJ JAKET KERTAS

TUTORIAL : DIGITAL KOLAJ JAKET KERTAS

Tutorial ini menunjukkan bagaimana untuk mengawal penempatan pola untuk menggabungkan gambar ke latar belakang, sebagai latar belakang. Hal ini juga menunjukkan bagaimana membuat pola yang sama ke tekstur realistik di beberapa bahagian. Mari kita lihat cara2 nya untuk melakukannya.

klik to view full image

Step 1

Download the two photos we’ll be using for this tutorial: model and torn paper. I downloaded the medium size. Now create a document 1132px by 1696px (these are the same dimensions as our model pic).

klik to view full image

Step 2

Place our texture background in the back and turn its visibility off for now. Also, place a copy of our model photo behind and hide it as well, as we will be using a destructive editing technique, so it’s good to keep a copy. We’re going to use techniques found in this video to extract the model from the background.

Select the "model layer" in the Layers palette. Then go to Filter > Extract. Grab the Highlighter Tool and outline the hair with an 80px Brush Size. Outline the rest of the model with a 10px Brush Size, zoom in when necessary. Then grab the Fill tool and Click inside the image. Then hit OK. The result is the last in the series below.

Tip: We use the Extract Filter because it gives us professional results quickly. After applying the extract, use the History Brush Tool if you need to clean up the extraction. See the video link for an example of this in action.

klik to enlarge

Step 3

Turn the "texture" layer’s visibility back on, and the background is now replaced. Notice how this texture isn’t quite long enough to fill the entire background. The lower left and right corners are not filled. We’ll need to account for this in later stages of the design process.

klik to enlarge

Step 4

Now let’s start building our Camouflage Collage Jacket. We’re going to break it into six parts. This will give us some flexibility. You could choose to break it up into more or fewer parts. I chose to use vector masks. This was chosen because we’re using a collage style. The vector masks give hard-edged cuts. It fits the style of what we are looking for. We will work from back to front. Let’s start with the left side.

Copy the "texture" layer. Then position it behind the left side of the jacket. Make sure this layer is selected. Then grab the Pen Tool (P). Make sure that Paths are selected. The Paths button is located in the top left-hand corner of Photoshop’s interface. Start drawing the shape of the left side of the jacket. Keep in mind what will go in front of this layer. This will help with deciding the path. Also, overshoot the original jacket a little, as you don’t want the original tan jacket to show in the final design.

Once you’ve drawn the mask, Ctrl-click and select Create Vector Mask. Then name the layer "left_side." Position the new layer in front of the model. Then add to the mask. Make sure the Vector Mask Thumbnail is selected. Then draw in the small patch at the bottom of the design, as shown in the last image below.

Be careful of which area you choose to use from the background, as some areas of the texture image are blurry. Those areas wouldn’t be the best to put into the jacket. Notice how we changed the jacket path to be a bit larger in the left-hand corner. This hides that area where the background ended.

klik to enlarge

Step 5

Now we will draw the left arm. Make another copy of the "texture" layer. Then position it behind the left side of the jacket. Again, draw a Vector Layer Mask, using the same process as in the previous step. Once you’ve completed, name the layer "left_arm," and move it to the front.

Tip: you may want to turn the Visibility of the "left_side" layer on and off while drawing this path. Ultimately, the "left_arm" layer should slightly overlap the "left_side" layer. Also, notice how we placed the texture in a different position than when we created the first mask. This further separates these two areas. If you prefer this to look flatter here then mask the texture in the same position as the "left_side" layer.




Step 6

Let’s draw the left jacket lapel next. Make another copy of the "texture" layer. Then position it behind the left side of the jacket lapel. Again, draw a Vector Layer Mask, using the same process. Once completed name the layer "left_lapel," and move it to the front. There are three pieces that make up the left lapel mask. The progressive process of making this mask is shown below.

klik to enlarge

Step 7

Repeat this process of creating Vector Masks for each piece of the right side of the jacket. Name the right pieces "right_side," "right_arm," and "right_lapel." Then position your textures the way you want them to look in the final design. On the right side, be sure to account for where the texture ends, and make the "right_side," layer cover up the missing texture spot.

You can unlink the mask from a layer in the Layers Palette. There is a little chain link icon that can be toggled on and off. When toggled off you can reposition the texture of the layer without moving the mask. You want to do any repositioning now, as we’ll be using the Burn Tool in the next step. This tool works directly with pixels, and therefore is irreversible. I also repositioned the background a little.

You may also want to save a copy of the document at this point as well, in case you want to return to this stage of the design. To do that go to File > Save As, and in the dialogue box check As a Copy. I named my copy "flat_masks".

klik to enlarge

Step 8

Now we want to decide which areas of our image to give volume to and which areas to keep flat. We want the camouflage to be strong in parts of the image. The strategy for this design is to have some parts look like an actual jacket, and others blend into the background as flat texture. This confusion of foreground and background adds interest to the image. We want a good mix of the two. The lapels will be the focal point. We’ll give them a full shading treatment.

We will predominantly use the Burn Tool (O) to brush in our shading. Once that tool is selected, choose a soft brush with a size between 40px and 80px. You can tap the left and right brackets ([ ] )on your keyboard to quickly increase or decrease the brush size. The options for this tool are located in the top left-hand corner of Photoshop’s Interface. Focus on the Range of Midtones mostly here, but if you want to make the Shadows or Highlights darker you could choose those Ranges as well. I also left the exposure at 50 percent. Keep in mind if you overdo it, you can grab the Dodge Tool, and lighten the image again.

Now Burn areas of the lapel with the Burn Tool. Focus on the outer edges. Turn off the texture and look at the original jacket. Take clues from the shading done to the original jacket, though feel free to differ when it makes sense. For the most part, significantly darken the inner edge of the lapel. Then darken the outer edge a little bit to create a curvature on the lapel.

The images below show the right lapel being created. Notice how we start with shading the inner shadow on the lapel. Then we move on to add some shading to the outer edge of the lapel. Overall a larger brush can be used on the inside. Then drop the brush size down a bit for the outside edge. The last image shows how the Burn Tool adds shading to the lapels. They now appear curved and are no longer flat.

klik to enlarge

Step 9

Now we will burn the "left_side," and "right_side," layers to add some emphasis to the lapels. We will also add shading in the sides. We’re going to let the left side blend into the background, but shade the right side more. The arrows in the images below show the areas shaded the most. The final image in the set below shows our results so far.

klik to enlarge

Step 10

Let’s give the sleeves some volume. We’ll be using the Burn Tool on the "left_arm," and "right_arm," layers. The arrows below indicate where most of the shading was placed.




Kesimpulan

Now that we have composed the image, go in and make any final adjustments. There is great variation that can be achieved with this type of design. It depends on how much volume you want areas to have, or if you want some areas to appear more flat. Consider using this kind of collage-style camouflage technique in one of your own designs. The final image is below.